First Take

Greetings from Yerevan!

    On June 22nd I arrived in Yerevan for a one year volunteer opportunity with Armenian Volunteer Corps.  Since then I've lived with a family, moved to my own apartment, started my volunteer job, found a Gold's gym with an Olympic pool and a good yoga instructor and I'm taking Armenian lessons 3 days a week.  Progress is slow with the Armenian language but now that I'm settling in to a routine I wish I could say that I'm making the time to study but I'd rather go to the gym - I haven't changed.

On to my first take - The People

    The people are what I expected, most are helpful, giving and kind while others are short and impatient. Generally speaking my experience has been great but occasionally I encounter a man where his comments are condescending as if I'm second rate  - I have to hold my temper, bite my tongue and remind myself it's a cultural difference.

Since the war began in Ukraine, or better known as "the war," around 100,000 Russians have moved to Yerevan and the surrounding areas. Some already had businesses in Armenia while others chose to leave because of the sanctions and the crack down. Armenians are a bit frustrated with the increase of Russians, their arrival has created a housing shortage with rents and overall prices higher, the Russians have become an easy scapegoat.  During the Syrian war 6,000+  Syrians moved to Armenia and between 4,000-5,000 Ukraines have moved here since March.  

it's about the lips

    

Armenian families and particularly the women want to make sure you're    well fed, at first it was nice to be fussed over then I learned that saying 'no thank you' is OK.  70% of the women have beautifully manicured gel nails - how they cook, wash dishes or use a keyboard astonishes me, among the 20-30 year old women Kim Kardashian lips seems to be in fashion.

coffee & a cigarette

    

On the other hand the men smoke cigarettes and drink coffee -  all day.  The joke at Armenian Volunteer Corps is that men don't have to be double digits in age to start smoking. Smoking is everywhere and hard to get away from- I'm a guest in Armenia and as a guest I quietly step away from the smoke.  Honestly I don't think it occurs to people that smoke is bothersome - this ain't America.  The majority of drivers are men, they're aggressive behind the wheel but worse of all are the bus drivers who have a scary habit of talking on their cell while driving.

The Food

    Thailand has the best tropical fruit but Armenia has the BEST cherries, plums, mulberries

Fruits galore

 (black and white), raspberries, watermelon and apricots which Armenia is known for.  I arrived at the end of the cherry season but for the past six weeks I've been able to savor all of the other fruits with one of my favorite stone fruits, peaches, now in season!  

Black & White Mulberries

Mulberries - what a delicious berry to have discovered, they look like small blackberries without seeds and when popped in your mouth the sweet morsels of yumminess melt away. The white mulberries are my favorite.

 

Each weekend I take the time to peel, seed and chop a few pounds of tomatoes then I cook  and freeze them for the winter.  The tomatoes are deep red in color with a rich taste and they're 50 cents - 75 cents a pound.  The fruit and vegetables are locally grown and each week their flavor profile is a surprise.

Lunch time

  

I'm a volunteer at National Cinema Center and for lunch the ladies share food.  Because the break room table sits 6 there are two shifts, our group, International Relations, have the best selection of food at our lunches.  Since I've come on board our lunches have given me the opportunity to cook with the local products and to try something new!   Lunch always includes lavosh, tomatoes, cucumbers, fresh herbs, salty cheese  and the additions are whatever we bring. Hanging with the ladies at lunch has been a special treat, most do not speak English and my Armenian is limited but we've been able to bond over the breaking of bread.

    

On Saturdays Armenian Volunteer Corps sponsors low costs outings throughout Armenia and a late lunch is always included.  Lunch is typically at the home of the cook and the food is outstanding.  As you'll see in the video - this is Armenia.

The transition to Armenia has been smooth.  There are no violent crimes, the police don't carry guns and I feel safe.  I plan to share my discoveries of this small but rich country and food will  be a topic. 

Hajogh,

Sheila