Second Take- The Russians are Coming, The Russians are Coming.....

Wait a minute..... they're here, they're here

"Our president has opened the door to hell," angrily spoken by one of my co-workers at National Cinema. Anoush, a mid 50s established film historian and archivist from St. Petersburg, left Russia in March because of the "war" and the economic downturn. She said a number of her friends have been arrested and are now in prison, I didn't ask why they were in prison but an educated guess is they spoke out against the war or are gay / lesbian.

During my four months in Yerevan I've met as many Russians and Russian Armenians as I have Armenians. At the start of the war the first wave of Russians arrived in Yerevan and presently the second wave of Russians are continuing to arrive, in all around 140,000 have immigrated to Armenia. Yerevan's population is 1,090,000 so the increase is significant. Russians, like Americans & Europeans, can stay in Armenia for 180 days without a visa. To renew the 180 days a quick overnight to Georgia to have one's passport stamped that you left Armenia is suffice to stay in Armenia for another 180 days. Because of the sanctions it's impossible for Russians to travel to most countries except former Soviet countries like Armenia, Bellarus, Khatzatstan and Georgia which are not as well developed as the West. Turkey, a NATO member, has opened their borders to Russians but they can only stay for 60 days and Turkey is quite strict - no turnarounds!

I teach English at the European School ( which isn't helping my Armenian), among my students are Iranians, Sierra Leones, Nigerians, Indians, Armenians and Russians, many have immigrated in the past two years. All of my Russian students are in Armenia because of the war, most are IT coders some work for American or EU companies and others for Russian companies. The Russians whom I've met are well educated, progressive, in the film industry, the art world or tech biz and are between the ages of 22 - 55. All are grateful to be in Armenia where they have the freedom to express themselves.

Below are a few stories of people I hang out with.

Mikhail, a young Russian Jew, was called to serve in the military at the beginning of the war. He and his wife decided to leave Moscow rather than risking his life. Mikhail and Angelina will move to Israel in May where they can obtain Israeli passports, this will give them to freedom to travel where their Russian passports gives them very little freedom. Mikhail is in the music business and Angelina is in the film industry.

Sergei, an IT developer and activist, was leaving anti-war pamphlets at homes and on autos in the middle of the night so as not to be seen. He was caught and arrested. After spending the night in jail, Sergei knew he would be watched - six days later he was in Yerevan.

Natalia and her husband, both in their mid 40s, left Moscow in April with their 3 children. Her husband feared being called back to the military and with Russia's economic downturn they decided to leave, now they're in Armenia. He's an IT app developer and the business is growing.

None of the men can ever return to their homeland.

Living in a former Soviet Republic country and experiencing the Russian handprint, meeting refugees- this is my everyday life. I've developed Russian friends who are grateful to be in Armenia - the country has given them freedom of speech, freedom to be who they are and as Mikhail says "I'm alive."

Angelina arrived with her husband in April.

faded paintings behind the alter

Ohanavank Monastery

On to Armenian culture....

Armenian Volunteer Corps offers their volunteers excursions, community service projects and cultural programs to participate in. Recently we hiked from Ohanavank Monastery to Saghmosavank Monastery (vank at the end of a word means monastery), an 8K hike which was listed as a medium hike - nope, it was challenging. 1/3 of the trail were rocks and balancing was a needed skill. Each step was worth the hike, the scenery was amazing, wild horses were along the trail as well as a cave dwelling but most surprising were the weddings awaiting us at Saghmosavank.....one wedding then another wedding, then another wedding. A popular destination for local weddings, the Saghmosavank wedding parties use the same flowers, same band, same dancers, same candles and the same priest. The sanctuary is small, hot and not ventilated, the priest was sweating profusely and I expected this poor overweight man to faint at any moment.

Ohanavank is a Medieval Monastery, the first section was built around 500AD, while the main structure of Saghmosavank Monastery was built in 1215AD. Both are situated above the gorge of the once Kasagh River, now a stream.

Rocks and more rocks

Kasagh Gorge

The priest survived the day

Almost to the top

Inside Saghmosavank

One wedding leaving the monastery

While another wedding party enters

Armenia's life line.. Lavosh

Lavosh and coffee are everyday staples for Armenians including me. Lavosh is typically baked in local bakeries or supermarkets or in a wholesale kitchen. When walking by a bakery the aroma of baking bread calls me, I'm weak and have to stop to buy piece(s) of bread and some other delight(s). My absolute favorite meal is Lavosh, fresh Armenian vegetables, herbs and salty cheese. Below is one of the bakers in my neighborhood, I think she's spraying the Lavosh with water to prevent it from drying out.