Fifth Take- Egypt's Hits and Take Aways

 

In May I met my friends, Kathy Hanks and Michael Wilson, in Egypt for an Egyptian experience.  The antiquities, tombs, temples and pyramids were exactly as the photos and videos that I've watched over the years.  The experience of seeing them up front was mind blowing and their grandeur was awe inspiring.  I was surprised to learn the span of the ancient Egyptian civilization, extending from Aswan to Alexandria to wherever the Nile flowed.  

Paintings at the tombs of the Nobles

The Spinx

 

                                                      Tutankhamun's Hunting Chest                                        

Karnack Temple

Ramses II Temple                      

This vlog is not about the archeology but about present day Egyptian culture.  To begin, this was my first visit to an Islamic country,  observing the integral role Islam plays in Egyptian life was an education.  Although Egyptians are immune to the Call to  Prayer, which happens 3-5 times a day, we were acutely aware of the seemingly ongoing chants.  After a while we began to distinguish the various muezzins call, some were in tune while others missed a few notes.  The Call to Prayer is heard all around the area as it's carried over speakers located on top of the mosque's minarets.  

The Citadel of Saradin of Al Ayouby, Old Cairo

Rural Mosque

       

Nubian Village Mosque

 Mosques are   everywhere and like America's rural churches, the further away from a major city the more mosques there are. 

The men claimed to pray at least once a day,  I'm assuming the same is true for the women.                      

The Islamic Egyptian woman.  With the exception of young girls the majority of women wear hijabs and long dresses with long sleeves. I asked our male guides about a woman's role in Islam....  simply put her role is to have children, take care of the them, cook, clean and cover all of their skin because women don't want to entice men. I then fired back, why don't men cover their skin and hair?  How do you know that women are not attracted to a man's skin?  The conversations would go back and forth, increasingly I became frustrated but soon realized the questions from this feminist were a lost cause.  One of our guides, a religous man,  said that after high school girls can choose college or get married.  Young women and young men are introduced by family members then after meeting a few times they can decide to marry or not marry.  This is their Islamic life.   

In Aswan I stayed at a Nubian village where there was a nearby restaurant.  One morning two young women between 18 - 20 years old were having coffee and we ended up chatting.  According to one of the women rape is a problem among the younger generation.  I've not looked for any data but this is her story in a country where women have very few rights or laws to protect them.

Egyptian Women and Visitors

Since the 2010s Arab Spring uprisings there has been an increased Military presence throughout Egypt particularly the tourist locations.  At first it was a bit unsettling to see the police and military with big ass rapid fire guns over their shoulders but soon I became accustomed to their presence.  However at Aswan Dam I was surprised at the number of military,  We were reminded that if attacked the dam could flood parts of Egypt and do enormous damage along the Nile. All of our guides proudly spoke of Egypt's military, their strength and that other countries needed them. The geo-politics of of the region are fascinating with oil and religion being the key drivers.

Egypt is poor and a bit underdeveloped.  At times I felt as if I had stepped back 100 years.  A few pics of daily life.

           

Vegetable Sales

Bread Delivery


Barefoot boys playing futbol in Nubian Village  

Taxi Boat 

Second story to be added when

the owners have the money

A drive through a typical town outside of Luxor

Egypt gave us so many memorable experiences but the one that was far above the rest, spending the day with an Egyptian family.  We had signed up for a cooking class with an Egyptian family, as it turned out we didn't cook but were treated to home cooked meals where we were honored guests.  We learned about the impact of Covid, the role of Islam, their family life, and while the women cooked we were served tea and met family members.  The breakfast and lunch were typical Egyptian family meals and every morsel was excellent.  Mohammad, the uncle / brother of the family, spoke perfect English and patiently translated all day.  He was proud of his Uncle's home and the home of his mother and we were honored to share the day with them.

After eating, Mohammad had arranged for us to meet his Mother and sister at their home. Upon entering and siting down Mohammad's sister, Zara, served everyone fresh strawberry drink, stuffed as we were we found the space in our stomachs to enjoy.  Zara also a teacher, spoke perfect English as did her children who have aspirations of university study in IT.

The tombs, artifacts, monuments, etc. were fantastic but the opportunity of sharing time with a local family was priceless.  

                               Breakfast                                               

 

Mohammad's Aunt, niece, grand-
daughter, niece, Kathy, niece, me

Lunch 

Ramadan Decorations

     

The Aunt prepared all of the food from this tiny kitchen

  The entrance to the  Uncle's Home.  

  

The outside garden patio

Mohammad's mother's home.  Kathy, Mohammad's neice, neice,
Mom, nephew, Zara, me.

We loved Egyptian food.  Not only did we eat at the home of Mohammad but also at a local restaurants, including a home in a small town outside of Luxor (a friend of our guide Ahmed).  In Cairo we did a food tour with Bellies en-route  feedme@belliesenroute.com, highly recommended.  We were introduced to falafel made with fava beans which we loved and Koshary, the Egyptian National dish made of rice, lentils, pasta, chickpeas, tomato sauce and crispy onions (add vinegar and hot sauce to your taste).  Even on a hot day Koshary was a satisfying delicious lunch.  Egyptians are known for their seasoned rotisserie or baked chicken as well as perfectly seasoned sides.  

   Falafel on our food tour

A local Falafel Stand    

       

The most famous Koshary Restauant in Cairo- Abou Tarek

Koshary

Delicous Rotisserie chicken with various sides

     One of the local restaurant owners

                  on our food tour.  

We chose not to take a large organized tour but to create our own agenda, we did so with Egypt Tailor Made Tours,  highly recommended.  Walid responded within a few hours, the guides were extremely knowledgable and there was plenty of water in the driver's spotless vans. By taking this path we were able to have these unique experiences and have a small taste of Egyptian culture.  Egyptians are proud people but have a long way to go to improve women and human rights, doubt I'll ever see a change.

Goodbye from our guide, Ahmed, the best storyteller I know.
Sheila, Kathy and Michael